We are often asked the question: Is this cat litter trained? This is a bit difficult to answer, because for the most part, every cat is litter trained (the exceptions being wild cats and kittens taken from their mother too early). Cats instinctively want to eliminate in a place that is quiet, out-of-the-way and as clean as possible. One doesn't really 'train' a cat to use a litter box. It would be more accurate to say that it is up to you to present your cat with a litterbox setup that satisfies what she is looking for in "bathroom facilities."

The following guidelines are what we recommend as the best possible setup to foster consistent litter box use:

• The best litter box is a large plastic tub. Nothing fancy, just big. The bigger, the better. Many cats will not use a covered litter box because it is too confining, and holds in the smell of the dirty litter. A 66-quart Sterilite storage box is perfect for most cats. This box is about 2½' long, 16" wide, and 14" deep. The high sides will keep the cat from overshooting the edge of the box, and also help to keep the litter in the box. (You can get these at Target for around $7 in the home storage section). Some small kittens may need a shallower sided box if they have trouble climbing in and out of the larger one.
• Clumping, unscented litter tends to appeal to most cats (but not kittens, see the next point). Cats have desert ancestors, so litter that is sand-like is most appropriate. Also, the chemicals and perfumes used to scent litter often times will deter a cat from using the box. We highly recommend Everclean HD (Heavy Duty). It clumps better than any other litter on the market and will make scooping the box very easy. Most clumping litters break apart while being scooped, which drops bits of dirty litter back into the box, defeating the purpose of scooping.
• Kittens under the age of 4 months should be given non-clumping, unscented litter. They are less careful about grooming themselves and if they ingest clumping litter, it could clump in their digestive tract and cause serious problems.
• Most adult cats prefer 3-4 inches of litter in the box. Kittens however will do well with only an inch or two. Read the recommendation on the box and see what your cat(s) prefer.
• Some cats like to urinate in one box and defecate in another. If a cat is stressed by sharing the box, it is important to make sure she has another choice in a different location. Therefore we recommend one litter box per cat, plus one.
• In a multiple cat household, the litter boxes should be spread out around the house. If the boxes are all together, one cat can easily "guard" the bathroom facilities and the other cats may not be able to get to the boxes. Also, if you have one box per floor of your home, your cat(s) will have an easier time getting to the box.
• Litter box location is an important issue. Cats like a quiet, safe place to eliminate. But they also like to be able to see what's going on around them, and know that they can escape if need be. Do not put the litter box in a high traffic area, or near things that are prone to make sudden, loud noises (washing machine, furnace, refrigerator, etc). A quiet corner with the box behind a plant tends to be a good place. If you have a dog, make sure the box is in a place that she can't get to. This is important for the safety of the cat and to prevent the dog from 'snacking' from the litter box (clumping litter can cause intestinal blockage if it is ingested).
• The litter box should be scooped every day, at least once, more if necessary. This is one of the most important (and easiest!) things you can do to keep your cat happy. Imagine flushing your toilet only once every couple days! Many cats are very picky about how clean they are and a dirty litter box is a sure way to get them to use a less appropriate place.
• Once per month (or more if necessary) you should completely change the litter. Dump out the old litter and wash out the box. It is important to not use a cleaner that has a strong smell (such as bleach, vinegar or ammonia) because some cats may be deterred from using a strong smelling box. Lots of very hot water and a bit of mild dish soap should be enough to clean the box.
• Litter pan liners can lead to problems with many cats. Urine will often pool in the folds of the plastic. If the cat pokes a hole in the liner, the urine will seep under it and smell even worse. Also, you may be teaching your cat that eliminating on plastic is ok, which could lead to the cat soiling on other plastic things around your home.
• If you are a cat owner that is pregnant or has immune system problems, it is very important to wash your hands thoroughly after scooping the litter box. Cats can carry the parasite that can cause Toxoplasmosis. However, as long as you are being careful (washing after scooping the box, washing after gardening (where stray cats may have defecated) and generally using good common sense), the risk is very small. In fact, the risk of getting Toxoplasmosis is much higher from handling uncooked meat than from owning a cat.

Inappropriate elimination is the most common behavior problem that vets and behaviorists are consulted about. Fortunately, it is, in most cases, a very solvable problem. Close monitoring of the factors listed above and an extra dose of positive attention will often times solve the problem. Keep in mind that soiling outside the box is never done to spite the owner. It may seem that way, but the most common reasons for it are:

• A physical problem (a urinary tract infection, crystals, bladder stones).
• Not providing an acceptable litter box situation (too few boxes, not clean enough, bad placement of the box, etc).
• Environmental stress (not enough positive attention, changes in the household, new animals, etc).

Many cats can be cured of their bad habits. If you find yourself with a cat that is soiling outside the box, the first thing you should do is have the cat examined by a veterinarian. Once a physical problem is ruled out, try some of the things listed above. If that hasn't taken care of it, call the Dane County Humane Society or Cats International (see Cat Resources). The counselors at both organizations have a lot of knowledge and experience dealing with problems like these.